The present invention concerns a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition capable of being applied on the skin and/or lips, and, in particular, an anhydrous composition for the care and/or make-up of the skin, and/or lips, especially a lipstick in stick form or a make-up foundation.
Lipstick and make-up foundation compositions normally contain fatty substances such as oils, viscous compounds and waxes, as well as particulate phase usually composed of fillers and pigments. When applied to the skin or lips, these compounds have the disadvantage of being transferred, that is, of forming a deposit, at least in part, while leaving a trace on objects with which they come into contact, in particular, a glass, a cup, a piece of clothing or the skin. Consequently, there remains on the skin or lips a reduced film which requires the periodic re-application of the make-up foundation or lipstick composition.
Furthermore, the appearance of unacceptable traces on clothing and, most especially, on the necks of blouses, may dissuade some women from using this type of make-up.
Another disadvantage of these compositions lies in the problem of migration. Indeed, it has been observed that some foundation compositions tended to spread inside wrinkles in the skin, that some lipstick compositions traveled in the small wrinkles surrounding the lips, while eye-shadows tended to spread in the folds of the eyelids. In the case of eye-shadows, the appearance of lines in the make-up, caused by movements of the eyelids, were also noted. All of these phenomena produced an unaesthetic effect which the consumer quite obviously wished to avoid.
For several years, many cosmeticians have been interested in lipsticks, and, more recently, make-up foundation compositions, that xe2x80x9cdid not transfer.xe2x80x9d Thus, Patent Application No. JP-A-61-65809 disclosed xe2x80x9ctransferlessxe2x80x9d lipstick compositions containing 1 to 70% by weight of a liquid silicone resin incorporating repeating silicate patterns (or having a three-dimensional lattice) comprising alkylated suspended chains of 1 to 6 atoms of carbon or phenylated chains, 10 to 98% by weight of a volatile silicone oil having a cyclic Sixe2x80x94O chain and containing methyl radicals, and pulverulent fillers. These compositions, although highly satisfactory as regards the lack of transference, had the disadvantage of being in liquid form and thus inconvenient to use, or, at the very least, of being far removed from the conventional idea of a lipstick, thereby limiting the number of women prepared to use this type of lipstick. In addition, the film produced on the lips after evaporation of the silicone oil had the disadvantage of becoming uncomfortable over time (sensation of drying and tugging, thus dissuading still other women from using this type of lipstick). To enhance the comfort given by this type of composition, non-volatile oils, whether or not they contained silicone, could be added; however, in this case the xe2x80x9ctransferlessxe2x80x9d property is lost. Moreover, these compositions take a long time to dry: that is, the lack of transfer appears only after several minutes.
More recently, Patent Application No. EP-A-602905 disclosed xe2x80x9ctransferlessxe2x80x9d lipsticks containing a volatile cyclic or linear silicone containing suspended methylated chains and a silicone resin incorporating a suspended esterified chain having at least 12 atoms of carbon. The lipstick film still possesses the problem of being uncomfortable when applied and, most notably, of being too dry.
The invention in question is intended to propose a composition, in particular an anhydrous composition, for skin care or make-up making it possible to remedy these difficulties, while, in particular, allowing the production of a film that does not transfer or migrate and that does not stain an object with which it comes into in contact, while exhibiting improved cosmetic properties as compared with the properties of xe2x80x9ctransferlessxe2x80x9d products according to prior art, in particular smooth sliding, the absence of tugging, and the lack of drying of the lips.
Accordingly, the object of the invention is the use of the combination of a volatile oil and a silicone-containing phenylated oil in a composition containing a fatty phase, in order to reduce transfer and/or migration and/or to improve the holding power of this composition.
Another object of the invention is a composition containing, in a fatty phase, a volatile oil, a silicone-containing phenylated oil, and less than 20% by weight of a non-volatile hydrocarbonic oil, e.g., a foundation product.
The invention encompasses compositions to be applied to the skin, the semi-mucous membranes, e.g., the lips, and/or the mucous membranes, e.g., the internal areas of the eyelids, and, in particular, not only to lip make-up but also to lip-care products and to skin and rouge make-up and care products such as foundations. In fact, facial make-up products possess the same problems of xe2x80x9ctransferxe2x80x9d to an object as do lipsticks.
The composition according to the invention may exist in solid form, e.g., as a stick. Furthermore, it yields a homogeneous film that is easily applied and spreads smoothly and uniformly. The film produced also has a light texture and remains comfortable and moist, and can be worn throughout the day.
The invention composition thus comprises a volatile oil which can be chosen, in particular, from hydrocarbonic or silicone-containing oils, whether cyclic or linear, either alone or in mixtures. The term xe2x80x9cvolatile oilxe2x80x9d in this description signifies any oil that can evaporate on contact with the skin. Preferably, use is made of oils whose flash point is sufficiently high to allow the use of these oils in formulations, and low enough to obtain the desired evanescent effect. Oils having a flash point of approximately 40-100xc2x0 C. are preferably used.
Usable volatile silicone oils include cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, and methylhexyldimethylsiloxane. Among the volatile hydrocarbonic oils, isoparaffins may be mentioned.
The composition according to the invention may contain 8-70% by weight, and preferably 30-60%, volatile oils in relation to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention also contains at least one phenylated silicone oil. This oil may be a polyphenylmethylsiloxane or a phenyltrimethicone, or a mixture of different phenylated silicone oils, and, in particular, it may correspond to the following formula: 
where:
R is an alkyl radical at C1-C30, an aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical
n is a whole number between 0 and 100,
m is a whole number between 0 and 100, provided that the sum m+n is between 1 and 100.
Preferably, R is a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl, or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl, or phenethyl radical.
Among these phenylated oils, mention may be made of Belsil PDM1000 oil from Wacker, DC556 and SF558 oils made by Dow Corning, Abil AV8853 oil made by Goldschmidt, and Silbione 70633V30 oil manufactured by Rhxc3x4ne Poulenc.
The composition according to the invention may contain 1-35% by weight, and preferably 20-30% by weight, phenylated silicone oils.
In addition to the oils cited above, the fatty phase may contain the fatty substances normally used in the contemplated scope of application. These substances include silicone-containing fatty substances such as oils, viscous fatty substances, silicone waxes, and non-silicone-containing fatty substances such as oils, viscous substances, and vegetable, mineral, animal, and/or synthetic waxes.
Silicone-containing fatty substances include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and alkyldimethicones, as well as silicones modified by potentially fluorinated aliphatic and/or aromatic groups or by functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, thiols, and amines.
Among non-silicone-containing fatty substances, mention may be made of paraffin, vaseline, perhydrosqualene, arara oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, or cereal gerin oil; esters of fatty acids; alcohols; acetylglycerides; the octanoates, decanoates, and ricinoleates of alcohols and polyalcohols; fatty acid triglycerides; glycerides; concrete hydrogenated oil at 25xc2x0 C.; lanolines; concrete fatty esters at 25xc2x0 C.; beeswaxes; vegetable waxes such as carnauba, candellila, urricury, and Japan waxes or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes; mineral waxes, e.g., paraffin and lignite waxes and microcrystalline waxes and ozokerites; synthetic waxes, including polyethylene waxes and waxes produced by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis.
The choice of these fatty substances made by the specialist may be varied, in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, e.g., consistency and texture.
In particular, the composition according to the invention may contain at least one wax, in order to ensure mechanical strength when the composition is produced in stick form.
When it exists as a flexible paste or molded product, the composition according to the invention contains a smaller quantity of wax, e.g., of approximately 2 to 15% by weight.
In general, the composition may contain 0.5 to 30% by weight of at least one hydrocarbonic and/or silicone wax, and, preferably, 10-20% by weight of hydrocarbonic wax and 0 to 10% by weight silicone wax.
Furthermore, it has been found that the improved staying power of the composition according to the invention and the absence of migration and/or transfer thereof could prove particularly advantageous when the composition contains less than 20% by weight of a non-volatile hydrocarbonic oil, preferably less than 5% by weight, and, in fact, it might contain no non-volatile hydrocarbonic oils at all.
The composition according to the invention may contain a particulate phase normally accounting for 0 to 35% by weight and preferably 5-25% by weight, and this phase may contain the pigments and/or nacres and/or fillers normally used in cosmetic compositions.
The term pigments refers to white or colored mineral or organic particles which are insoluble in wax and volatile silicone and which are intended to color the composition and/or render it opaque. The term fillers refers to colorless or white mineral or synthetic particles, whether lamellate or non-lamellate, intended to impart body or stiffness to the composition. The term nacres refers to iridescent particles rich in lime and produced by certain mollusks in their shell.
The pigments may make up 0 to 15% by weight of the final composition, and preferably from 8 to 10%. They may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium, or cerium dioxides, as well as zinc, iron, or chrome oxides and ferric blue. Organic pigments include carbon black and barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum lacquers.
The nacres may make up 0 to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably in a high proportion of approximately 8 to 15% by weight. Usable nacres include mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride, as well as colored mica titanium.
The fillers, which may compose 0 to 30% by weight, and preferably 5 to 15%, of the composition may be mineral or synthetic, lamellate or non-lamellate. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, nylon and polyethylene powders, teflon, starch, micatitanium, natural nacre, boron nitrate, microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), polytrap (Dow Corning), and silicone resin microballs (e.g., Tospearls made by Toshiba).
The composition may further contain any additive normally employed in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sunscreens, surfactants, liposoluble polymers, in particular hydrocarbonic polymers, such as polybutene, polyalkylenes, polyacrylates, and silicone polymers compatible with fatty substances. These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0 to 10% by weight.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select any additional compounds and/or quantities thereof, so as ensure that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention will not, or substantially not, be altered by the contemplated addition.
The procedures for manufacture of the compositions according to the invention do not differ in any way form the procedures conventionally used in the cosmetics field and are entirely known to the specialist. These procedures consist in mixing the different constituents of the composition, preferably after heating, then in pouring them to produce the desired shape.
The compositions according to the invention may take the form of sticks or of flexible or poured pastes, or even of an oily, potentially gelled liquid.
The compositions according to the invention may take the form of a cosmetic product, and, in particular, as a skin make-up product, especially a make-up foundation, a blusher or eyeshadow, or a lipstick.
They may also exist as uncolored products, potentially containing cosmetic active ingredients. In that case, they may be used as a lip-care base or as a fixing base to be applied on a conventional lipstick. The fixing base then forms a protective film on the lipstick film, restricts the transfer and migration thereof, and thus increases its staying power.
The compositions may also be produced as a dermatological or skin-care composition or as a sun or self-tanning composition.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following examples.